Excited to get started on the pool deck, I was up early on Saturday morning. I needed to wait until 8:00 AM to start using power tools as to not disturb the neighbors. I would first need to layout the posts locations.
Believe me, I spent a lot of time figuring out the height of the deck. While I might lose a few readers with the measurements and the methods to this madness, I considered the plan was good.
Using a string to line up my posts, I would use the pool and the house as my reference points. I needed to install the posts on the concrete footing using a metal bracket. I would drill the hole for the anchor and screw down the metal bracket. I would overcut the posts as I did not know exactly how high the deck or railings would be. I would need to consider the highest point of the pool wall to set the height of the deck.
I established the height by using the highest wall of the pool, which was the filter side. Adding in the 1-1/2 inch thickness of the decking material, that would be my height. I would need to transfer that measurement to the front of the deck. Using a string and string level, I attached the string from the top of the pool rail to the post closest to the filter. Once the string was level, I had my reference point. The deck joists would be flush with the top rail and the decking would sit on top of the joists.
Starting from that first post on the patio side, I started connecting the 2 x 8 beams to the posts. I would use just screws to secure them to set the height. Once the beams were in place on all the posts in the front, I would use 1/2-inch carriage bolts to secure them. Using my Black and Decker® corded drill and my 12-inch-long 1/2-inch drill bit, I drilled two holes through the beams and where there was a post. With my Sears Craftsman® ratchet wrench, I tightened down all 16 nuts.
For the posts near the pool, I mounted them as close to the pool as possible. Most posts were not centered on the footings but landed near the edge closest to the pool. I really wanted to get the support beams as close as possible so the joists would not cantilever too far over the beam.
When I installed the 2 x 8 beams for the inside post, I needed to consider their height so the joists were to be level with the top rail of the pool. Installing the beams, I would use only screws for starters. I cut my first joist and used it as a gauge to make sure the beam was the right height. I already had a problem as the joist was too high. The joist was not flush with the pool. I was not going to dismantle the front beam. I would need to either replace the beam or the posts as the bolt holes would not line up if I moved the rim beam down about 1/2 inch.
What I forgot was the pool was not level. The joists would be higher at this point of the deck. The height would gradually get higher as the deck got to the deep end. A disaster was diverted for now. The question was how I would support the decking where it would not sit on the top rail. I needed to come up with a solution soon.
There were two beams sandwiching each inside post and bolted together. It might have been a bit overkill, but that was the plan. More holes for the Black and Decker® drill and more bolts for my Sears Craftsman® ratchet driver. The socket I was using was not a Sears Craftsman® socket. I think I lost that size when I used to do my own car repairs. I was using a socket from one of those cheap sets I owned. It was starting to strip out and round over the bolt heads and nuts. I would need to find another one or get a new one.
I worked on the front of the deck structure on and off throughout the next two weeks. I was ready to install the deck boards.